Off beaten track

Tranquility Swirling fog, reflections of bare trees in the water, the cry of birds in the distance, placid Nilgai and Chital feeding in the swamp, a lonely Indian Rock Python by the side of the road; all haunting images of a beautiful bird sanctuary.  This placid and almost utopian image was shattered by gunfire in the past and today by loud music, groups of people drowning out the jabber of jungle babblers with human cacophony; the careless flick of a tourist wrist throwing a plastic wrapper destined to choke an unwary bird to a very unpleasant death.  Jungle Babblers and Indian Magpie beg the passerby for a morsel, having lost the art of foraging as they've grown used to eating 'fast food' thrown at them by visitors. On a holiday it is obvious that most people come here to see and do everything except watch the birds or enjoy the placidity of nature. I saw couples and groups, most here just for the sake of being here, "Bharatpur dekha".  Jungle Babbler begging t...

Guarding the sea approach A cannon and the turret typical to this fort on the upper ramparts Forts...... Evoke visions of battles, gun smoke, chivalry, heroism and even a touch of romance. India is replete with forts from time immemorial, everyone made them, ancient civilisations, the later invader turned rulers, and finally the European colonising powers. The industrial revolution really put an end to forts and fortifications as a pivot from which to wage war. A classic case being during the Second World War when the Germans outflanked the French fortified Maginot Line, arguably the last �fort� constructed. Silent Sentinel A cannon with Portuguese coat-of-arms guards the approach to the Mandovi A fort was the symbol of power and writ and they were made for many reasons. These were primarily defensive (most Mughal, Rajput and Maratha forts), but often as the bastion of a city state (Vasai fort in the Mumbai suburbs), revenue collection (the many tiny forts around Gwalior and Central In...

A view of  Table Mountain from the Lower Cable Car Station. This is the start of the climb. Table Mountain is an iconic landmark towering in grandeur above Cape Town, the southernmost tip of South Africa, exudes a powerful but inviting presence.   Its slopes have wildlife, an exquisite range of flora and the homes of the rich and famous. Even today, despite human habitation creeping up its slopes, it is an imposing sight, particularly from the suburbs of Cape Town.   Huge blocks of stone, almost artificially cuboid, make up the steep cliffs crowning the summit.    Presiding majestically over the city of Cape Town, adventurers will feel compelled to conquer the giant by walking to its summit. Take the cable car back to the bottom if your legs are too tired to descend on foot, which is what I did. After a short while looking down at the  lower cable car station. The view of Table Mountain is an ever changing kaleidoscope of vistas, sometimes clear and stark s...

This is the text of an article I wrote for India Today Online on 19 May 2009, shortly after the death of Prabhakaran and the bitter culmination of the battle between the Sri Lankan Army and the LTTE. The end has arrived. The LTTE appears to have been annihilated. At least temporarily. But could a phoenix arise from the ashes? This is a distinct possibility should the Sri Lankan Government not address the aspirations of the Sri Lankan Tamil people, a fundamental cause of the struggle. Having been the Brigade Major of an infantry brigade of the IPKF in Sri Lanka from 1988 to 1990 I had a ring side seat to some of the most severe fighting seen at that time.  I operated in and around Mullaitivu, which, as events have shown, has always been the hotbed of the LTTE and their reaction to military operations here have always been very severe.   Due to my personal involvement then, I have since closely followed events in this civil war and what follows are my personal observations on wh...

I wrote this essay five years ago based on my memories of a very significant period of my military life. In 1987 the Indian Peace Keeping Force (IPKF) was deployed in Sri Lanka to underwrite the Sri Lanka Accord signed in July that year. But the situation quickly spiralled out of control, and by October the Indian Army and the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE) was locked in what would be a three-year armed conflict. Up to 80,000 Indian troops served on the island, but despite relatively large numbers of casualties and the importance of the conflict in the region, the episode remained an undeclared war and has been treated as a postscript to Indian military history. Killed or wounded soldiers were seldom given their due, but those who fought there will not forget. A serviceman remembers the trenches of that war. Coming in over Mullaitivu Town in a helicopter. The approach was usually over water to avoid ground fire.  It was a beautiful beach, with the seabed dropping deep v...

It is here that the beautiful mountains have witnessed the most humiliating military debacle inflicted on modern India; the drive is redolent with the valiant deeds of long fallen heroes, now enshrined in the many memorials big and small.  Do spend a silent moment at these memorials and honour those who made the supreme sacrifice in the discharge of their duty.  Arunachal Pradesh is the state formed from the erstwhile North East Frontier Agency (then commonly referred to as NEFA) and a drive through West Kameng is quite representative of the lives these hardy people of the mountains live.  An inner line permit is required to ener the state, this is best got at Delhi or Guwahati.  Our drive followed the popular route Tezpur � Bhalukpong (the state border) � Tenga � Bomdila � Se La � Jung � Tawang � Bum La and back the same way.  A journey we performed in an easy 10 days, staying for 2 � 3 days at places en route. The entire journey can be done by bus, but if you ...

The abode of the clouds, so aptly named.    Do not go to Meghalaya with a plan for a hectic �been there done that� kind of schedule crammed with plans for sight seeing.    This is a state which you have to just soak in ( pun intended); rambling through verdant hills, waterfalls and lakes.    The beauty here is a vivid green kaleidoscope of forested hills, water and clouds. One can arrive at Guwahati by train or plane and then motor up to  Shillong , the capital of the state.    This town used to be the capital of  Assam  in the old days and the layout and buildings are still redolent of the Raj. Using  Shillong  as a base one should motor around the state as far afield as one desires.    There is plenty of accommodation in  Shillong  ranging from the budget friendly to the exotic and expensive. The three hour drive up from Guwahati is a precursor of scenes to come, lush green rain forests, and quaint vi...